Archive for the ‘Projects’ Category

Earbud-Wrap Business Card

Sunday, May 15th, 2011

I made one last (for now) modification to my Credit Card Earbud Holder. The wrap now ends with an over-pass that really locks everything in place. As before, it’s insanely easy to remove the wrap.

Wrapped
Bundle slides right off
<2 Second Removal

The other thing I realized is that, if laser cut from thin plastic, this would make a really neat business card. I don’t really feel like paying for a laser-cut version at the moment, so I just printed out a shipping label to illustrate. If you DO feel like laser cutting this bad boy, I’ve uploaded the plans to Thingiverse. (The plans will also help you if you just want to make one out of an old card)

UPDATE: I got some of these laser cut. They look amazing.

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My Take on the Credit Card Earbud Holder

Thursday, May 12th, 2011

Yesterday on Lifehacker they posted a forehead-smack idea. Take a credit card, cut it up a bit. You’re left with a free, light, earbud holder. I’ve got a bunch of old cards lying around, so I made one.

Bud Holder - Theirs

I Didn’t like it. My design grievances:

  • You wrap in the short direction, which means more wrapping to get the job done
  • Having the earbuds stored on either side means you need to put in each bud individually
  • It takes just as long to unwrap as it does to wrap

It needed some work to compete with my current method. The beauty of using cards is that they’re easy to work with and plentiful (in my house at least.) It only took about an hour (7-10 iterations) to settle on a winner. Meet my new earbud holder:

Bud Holder - Mine
Bud Holder - Mine

  • The earbud slots are wide and next to eachother, so you can get the buds in quickly with one motion
  • You wrap the long way, so you’re done in half the time
  • The way the plug is clipped ensures that the wrap stays put, but…
  • Because the wrap isn’t in channels, it slides right off once the plug is detached. WAY faster.

UPDATE: I went through a few more iterations and came up with an improved design.

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Google is Keeping the Offset Header

Wednesday, May 11th, 2011

I have a one-track mind whenever I see a new Arduino variant. My eyes drift to one spot to see if the offset is still there. Naturally I did the same thing when I saw that Google is releasing its own Arduino-type thing

Lo and behold, there’s the telltale gap. I’ll need to look at any schematics they wind up open-sourcing, but I’m fairly certain: Sparkfun will be selling these for a while longer.

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Arduino Uno Keeps Header Offset

Monday, September 27th, 2010

Uno Spacing

The newest version of the arduino was announced last week. At first glance it seemed as though they got rid of the offset header spacing, but a closer look at the spec showed that it is still 0.16 inches. It would have been a bold move to change that spacing; there are a lot of 0.16-spaced shields out there. Looks like Sparkfun will be selling offset headers for some time to come.

See also: Offset Header Explained

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This changes everything

Friday, August 13th, 2010

A lot of my projects involve 120VAC, switching relatively slowly. Most people use mechanical relays in that situation, but I don’t like them; I try to avoid moving parts whenever possible. Up to this point, I’ve always used solid state relays. They work really well, but they’re expensive. What this means is that I’ve needed to move my same 2 SSRs from project to project, which is kind of a pain.

Well no more! Enter the humble Triac. They’re tiny, cheap, and in my slow switching applications the circuitry isn’t too complicated. That being said, it’s still the most complicated circuit I’ve ever attempted.

triac schematic

I figured a good first application would be a switched outlet. It’s fairly simple, and it’s something that I could use in prototyping later on.

IMG_8431

IMG_8430

And there you have it. A neat little package with two independently controlled power plugs. The best part is the cost. The whole thing cost less then $10! With SSRs it would have been ~$80, and I don’t know if they even would have fit in the box.

Triac Box from br3ttb on Vimeo.

There’s one issue I’m going to need to keep an eye on. Apparently, if a Triac overheats, it tends to fail into the on position. There’s nothing here that detects if this is about to happen, so I’ll have to keep an eye on it for a while to be sure there’s adequate cooling

Update: There is NOT adequate cooling. I did a real test just now. 1500W toaster oven on high. after a minute I started smelling perfboard. Everything was disconnected before any damage was done, but some design revisions are in order before I try to switch high loads again.

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DIY Safety Razor Handle

Saturday, March 6th, 2010

DIY Safety Razor

It’s terrifying.  I’m still in shock that it actually works, but it totally does. One dollar of materials and two or three hours of work, and I now have a safety razor of my very own.

Why? Why would you do something like this?

Basically, I’m cheap and I like making things for myself. I’d been toying with the idea off-and-on since reading a Lifehacker post on safety razors. It all came together for me this past week.

Eureka!

dimension extraction

I was looking at an image from an old razor patent when inspiration struck. Based on the known razor width and some trigonometry, I was able to determine that the two main radii were 0.53″ and 0.66″. It turns out that these are almost identical to 3/4″ and 1″ sch40 pvc, which is available everywhere.

Construction

Disassembled

Sorry. No mid-build pictures on this project. I never thought it would work. This was supposed to be a study of sorts, just seeing how things might work in further iterations. Instead it worked, and I’m stuck trying to give the gist of it…

  1. Cut a piece of 3/4″ pvc slightly bigger than the desired top piece.
  2. Wrap sandpaper around some 1″ pvc and sand down the botton edge of the 3/4″.
  3. Cut a section of 1″ pvc for the bottom piece.
  4. Make holes in the top and bottom pieces.
  5. Run a bead of jbweld down the center of the top piece.  as it hardens shape it into a ridge.
  6. After the jb hardens, sand such that it just fits the blade’s slot.
  7. Remove material from the bottom piece to make room for the jb ridge.
  8. In theory, you’re done!  In reality there’s some fine-tuning to do.  It took me about an hour of trial-and-error sanding until I was happy with the final shape of the top piece.

I’m going to shave with this for awhile, and when I make the next one I’ll try to be more diligent about documentation.

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OpenSCAD: A Love Story

Friday, November 27th, 2009

Ok, maybe that’s a bit strong, but I’d definitely say we’re dating. I heard about OpenSCAD from the Make Blog, and with a belly fully of thanksgiving turkey I tried it out. I agree with the Make post and the referenced Thingiverse post : In the right hands, designing the right parts, this is a game changer. I played around with it for maybe 3 hours, and was able to generate this:

burr plate

Insane. I’ve been toying with the idea of making a grist mill using burr plates. The main hurdle for me was visualizing all the different angles and how they would interact. I tried drawing one in SketchUp, but after many hours, I threw in the towel. Before OpenSCAD came along I was trying to build the mental momentum to draw the plate in Processing! Seriously. I was going to use their 3D libraries and a TON of math so I could play with a parametrized model.

burr plate code

Speaking of coding, I should also mention that the code to generate the model is TINY. I’ve spread it out and commented it here, but in rough-and-dirty form, the code is less than 10 lines. 10 LINES! I’m free to edit any of the parameters, re-render, and a new model pops right up. Great stuff.

So I’d say there’s a new tool in the tool-box. It’s by no means the only one I’ll use, but certain modeling tasks just got a heck of a lot easier.

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REALLY deconstructing a Doodle Pro

Wednesday, November 25th, 2009

I didn’t really “deconstruct” the doodle pro in the last post. I split the housing apart with a screwdriver, and I didn’t even show pictures! What a gyp. For those of you that are interested in a little more, here you go:

Doodle Pro - Layers Separated

I pulled apart the drawing panel. It looks like it’s made up of two sheets of plastic. One is embossed with a honeycomb, and the other is then fused over-top. I really had to yank to get these apart, so I’m guessing they used some heat to melt them together.

Inside there’s metal shavings and a PUTRID smelling liquid. You know how cherry, watermelon, orange, etc flavors don’t taste like the real thing? Imagine if the same people were asked to make something that smells like feet. That’s the best analogy I can think of: synthetic feet smell.

Oh man, if you could…

Now the million dollar question… could someone DIY one of these? Maybe using a clear plastic mesh and two thin sheets of the same plastic? I think the hardest part would be dealing with the liquid. It needs to be viscous enough to hold the shavings in place, it needs to be opaque, and the plastic layers need to be fused closed with the liquid in place.

If you could make one in the 3′ x 4′ range, the payoff would be huge. Even if you don’t do what I’m thinking with it, it would still make a kick-ass whiteboard replacement.

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Deconstructing a Doodle Pro (a.k.a Magna Doodle)

Wednesday, November 18th, 2009

I’ve been really intrigued by various Etch-A-Sketch automation projects out there (here’s a few.) I’m excited by the prospect of a large, diy, low energy display. I’d love to use one to make a web-synced wall calendar. I can see two major hurdles in the The Etch-A-Sketch route though: You can’t lift the pen, and you need to shake it (or redistribute the powder somehow,) to erase the drawing.

Doodle Pro

I went around and around in my head, trying to figure out how to overcome these issues, when my girlfriend says, “Why not use a Magna Doodle?” Why not indeed! The erasing process is just a swipe of a magnet, and there’s no aluminum dust to contend with. Much easier. (I should mention here that while I have always known this toy as “Magna Doodle,” that’s a discontinued name. Fisher Price bought it and renamed it “Doodle Pro.”)

There’s a wrinkle though. Unlike the Etch-A-Sketch, the Doodle Pro needs the pen to be on the viewer’s side of the screen. That would probably be ok, but ideally I’d like all the display hardware to be hidden from view. What to do, what to to?

Doodle Pro Test - FrontDoodle Pro Test - Back

Well, I got some cheap Doodle Pros today, and upon taking one apart, it looks like that may not be an issue. It turns out that when you draw something on one side, you get a decent negative on the other! So I’m going to try, at least at first, to create a display with the pen hidden from view. The user will see a black (gray, I guess) background with white lines. The lines are a little fatter than I’d like, but there may be some improvements that can be made to the pen that will fix that.

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Success!

Saturday, October 10th, 2009

chugging along

Constant Air + Constant Heat = Constant Smoke. Who knew?

Constant Air

pre-patch JBpost-patch

Holes. There were tons of holes. To have complete control over the air I had to patch them all. Most of them were fairly easy. A little JBWeld and aluminum foil and I had rigid, (fairly) high temp patches. All the seams got a bead of JB for good measure as well.

repositioned ramp

The biggest hole of all was at the front, where the toaster door used to be. The box was essentially open. What I did there was rotate the entire box 90 degrees, making that opening the top. The ramp needed to be repositioned, but that wasn’t too hard. Now the gaping hole was on the exit side of the chamber, where leaks aren’t as important.

The cover for this hole was also upgraded. Where before it was covered using a big piece of foil, I finally used something better: a nice metal sheet with a 3″ outlet pipe.

Constant Heat

thermistorThermistor Location

In the previous attempt I had scrapped the stock themostat and switched to SSR control of the heating elements. I set it to a fixed value, walked away, and the whole thing promptly caught on fire.

This time around, I added a thermistor to the mix. It’s amazing what a little feedback can do. As far the control algorithm, I didn’t bother using the PID library (*gasp*.) For a process this simple all it took was a back-of-the-envelope P-only controller. It held the temperature and SSR output constant, and more importantly, things didn’t catch fire.

Vibration

As before, I used a blow-drier fan for vibration. This time, however, it was mounted on the OUTSIDE of the box. It vibrated well -10 seconds every 15 minutes- for the duration of the test. It also didn’t melt into a pile of goo, which was a definite plus.

Results

this is why we're here

I’m ecstatic.   All my success criteria have been met! The Smoke was consistent, and by restricting the air inlet I was able to adjust smoke density.

I put in a pound of wood (3 large chunks), and this thing ran for 5 hours straight before the smoke started to die down. There’s room for 3-4 Times as much wood in there, so an 8-16 hour run time is attainable.

Next Steps

As far as proving out the concept, I’m pretty much done. All that’s left for this phase of the project is to smoke some meat.

Beyond that I’d like to improve the design from a DIY standpoint; making it as easy to copy as possible.

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